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Natural Beauty for Everyone
Quick Jump Links:
No 'Poo
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No-'Poo
This has been a long time in coming, but I'm happy to finally be
discussing it. What prompted me was a barrage of television infomercials.
Products like "Wen" and others are being widely marketed as natural
beauty products. They're charging a fortune for those products...and
getting it! And for more reasons than just those "natural" products being
advertised as such, I'm concerned about the many chemicals loaded into
those products we use - all for the sake of beauty. Many of them contain chemicals that you
may or may not have heard about, as being potentials for causing cancers.
So does that mean that we just stop using it all? Some would say a flat
out "yes"! Other's would like to find a happy medium. And still other's want to find a completely natural approach.
So let's talk about it...did you know that 90% of the dirt on hair and
skin can be removed by washing with warm water only? Add a clean washcloth
and you increase that percentage drastically! Think about that one for
a while.
"No-Poo"
What is No 'Poo?
Quite simply put, it's no shampoo...no longer washing your hair
with conventional shampoos. While the first thought of not shampooing your
hair anymore might produce that "ewww, icky!" grimace to cross your face
read on, because there's a lot of good information here.
The Cycle
We use a shampoo to clean our hair and make it smell fresh, and in doing
so we strip away every iota of it's natural oils, causing it to feel dry.
So we then moisturize with a conditioner to put back the oil that we just
washed away! Usually this conditioner weighs down our hair so we apply a
mousse-like product for fuller, fluffier hair. But these products tend to
dull our hair, so we then add a "shiny factor", such as hair spray or
polish. I could go on, but do you see this vicious circle? AND we spend
billions of dollars a year on this cycle! Not to mention the potential
damage we're doing to ourselves and the Environment via all those
chemicals...entering our bodies through our skin (the bodies largest
"organ") and eyes, nose and mouth. Additionally, all of this nonsense
leads to an imbalance of sebum production (natural scalp oil), and that's
when we realized that we had either too much or too little of it (dry or
oily hair/skin).
The Natural Solution?
These are some experiences from both men and women...
[Prepare before you begin a
no-shampoo routine:
Wash
your hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove any silicones and
styling product residues. Get your hair trimmed if you have any split
ends. It takes an average of 2-4 weeks (6 in some cases) for your scalp’s
sebum (natural oil) production to adjust to the no shampoo. Keep in mind
that your hair may even look worse at first. Hair is a long-term project
and it may take more than a couple weeks for it to regain its health, but
once it does…you’ll be AMAZED! ]
CONTRIBUTOR ONE:
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Begin your routine by wetting your hair in the shower.
-
Distribute
conditioner on your entire scalp and massage your scalp with the
tips of your fingers, not your nails (you'll break skin and hair that
way). This will cleanse the scalp of any dirt and get rid of dandruff.
Then rinse thoroughly. You only need to do this step every other day.
-
Distribute a moisturizing conditioner throughout all of
your hair.
-
Untangle using your fingers or a wide-toothed comb. Take
a small section of hair on one side of your head and untangle from the
bottom up. Repeat until all of your hair is combed.
-
Let the conditioner sit in your hair for five minutes or
so for extra moisture.
-
Do the final rinse of your hair with cool or cold water
to decrease frizz and add shine.
-
Leave some conditioner in your hair, especially in dry
sections like the ends.
OR…
1. Consider using
non-sulfate shampoos or home remedies (below) in place of harsh
sulfate shampoos. All of these may be drying to the hair so use only once
a week and be sure to condition afterwards.
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Baking Soda Mix:
Baking soda is also known as bicarbonate of soda. It is sold in most
supermarkets, health food stores and similar places. Before showering,
combine one tablespoon baking soda with one cup warm or hot water in a
plastic bottle and shake thoroughly. Work into the hair and comb
through. Rinse thoroughly.
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ACV (Apple Cider
Vinegar) Rinse: ACV, of course, smells like vinegar. Don't worry
though; once you have rinsed your hair the smell will go away. If it
doesn't, you are using too much ACV. Combine one to two tablespoons of
ACV with one cup water in plastic bottle. Work into the hair and comb
through. Rinse thoroughly.
-
Lemon Juice:
Combine the juice of one lemon with an equal amount of your normal
conditioner. Work into the hair and comb through. Rinse thoroughly.
2. Avoid waxes and silicones,
ingredients that generally end in “one” or “ane”, in hair products. Short
term, silicones will make hair look sleeker and less frizzy, but in the
long run they will coat the hair shaft and seal out moisture causing hair
to become straw like, less defined, and frizzy. The only way to remove
silicones and waxes is to use a harsh, drying sulfate shampoo. Most of the
commercialized lines of hair products (Pantene, Garnier Fructis, Aussie,
TRESemme', Sunsilk, Etc.) contain silicones. However if a silicone has
"PEG" in front of it, it is water-soluble and will not build up.
CONTRIBUTOR TWO:
Do you No 'Poo?
by Patricia Mayville-Cox
Oct 8th 2007 @ 7:00AM
Have you
heard about No 'Poo? No, it does not involve poo. It's No 'Poo as in no
shampoo. Why would you want to No 'Poo? Well, according to an article by
Audrey Schulman, the natural oils in our hair, called sebum, are all we
need to keep our hair healthy. When we wash sebum away every day with
shampoo, all we are doing is forcing our scalp to go into overdrive,
making more sebum to compensate. Sebum is intended to protect your hair
and even has antimicrobial properties. Of course, going No 'Poo also cuts
down on consumption of shampoo, including the plastic bottles.
To go No 'Poo, according to Schulman,
all you have to do is wash your hair with plain water and then brush with
a washcloth for 100 strokes. The brushing distributes your own
natural oils from your scalp across your hair. Schulman is a convert; she
claims her hair is shiny and wavy and she's been going No 'Poo for five
years now. If you feel like you need a little help once in a while,
Schulman recommends washing with a conditioner or using a bit of baking
soda mixed with water just near your scalp. To tame the frizzies, brush
more often with a washcloth or douse hair ends in some apple cider
vinegar.
CONTRIBUTOR THREE:
BBC presenter Andrew Marr has given up washing his hair - saying the
scalp's natural oils will keep it glossy and clean. We challenged two
women to do the same...with surprising results:

Lucy Sutton, 24, a
trainee marketing executive, is single and lives in Hammersmith, West
London. She says:
Three weeks into the great hair challenge, my sister came over to my
flat for the evening. She took one look at my hair and said: "What have
you done to it? That's a great style - did it cost a fortune?"
I burst out laughing, and replied: "I haven't washed my hair for three
weeks."
A look of revulsion came over her face and she said: "That’s awful."
But then she looked at me curiously. "The weird thing is," she continued,
"it really suits you."
My hair is naturally very fine and thin, and I used to wash it every
two days, and then use hair straighteners. A good 90 per cent of my
self-confidence in how I look comes from my hair, so much so that if I was
having a bad hair day I could barely drag myself out of the house.
Looking back, I can see how much I’ve been damaging my hair by doing so
much to it. My hair always looked neat, but I think it was lifeless - the
shampoo was taking all the natural oils out of it. Since I stopped using
shampoo, my hair has more volume, and I’m astonished to find it has a
natural wave - I always thought it was just straight and boring.
Six weeks on, I love my new look. But it has been a real test of nerve.
I am applying for a new job at the moment and I need to look my best, so
when I took on the challenge I thought: "What on earth will I look like in
six weeks’ time, when I have my job interview? And will it smell?"
I have always prided myself on looking clean and neat and my friends
all thought the challenge was hysterical. They said: "You’re crazy. You’ll
never keep it up."
I must say, I nearly cracked after a week, when my hair was at its
worst. It was dry at the ends, but greasy at the roots, and I became
obsessed with it, checking my appearance in the mirror every hour to see
if it looked as bad as it felt.
In that first week I refused to go out with my friends, but I
persevered, and by the second week I was beginning to see an improvement.
The ends were still dry, but the roots were less greasy - my hair seemed
to have a kind of film over it, like a natural sheen.
Luckily, my hair smelt clean - there was no unpleasant odour. Then it
started to look rather healthy and bouncy. I now really love its natural
wave, and I am worried that if I go back to washing it, I will lose that
curl.
An old friend from university asked me last week: "When did you start
curling your hair? It looks great." I smiled and said that in fact I just
hadn’t washed it. He burst out laughing and thought I was joking. Now, my
hair looks in really good condition, but it does need the ends cutting
off.
This experiment has made a huge difference to my life, because I’m no
longer wasting an hour a day washing and blow-drying it. I’m also saving
about £40 a month on hair products.
I am now never going to wash my hair with shampoo again and feel
positively liberated by this experiment. I can’t believe I used to waste
so much time and money obsessing about my hair.

Tamaraye Sawacha, 24, is an HR graduate who lives with her parents in
North-West London. She says:
My father is Nigerian and my mother is from Barbados,
so my hair is black Afro-Caribbean. Normally it is very dry, and I wash it
maybe every two weeks using Dark And Lovely shampoo, which is specially
designed to add moisture and shine to dry hair.
If I wash it more often than that, it becomes even more dry. I also
have hair extensions, and my natural hair becomes extremely brittle,
because the extensions pull at the scalp and make it harder to wash and
condition the hair underneath.
So I was very interested to take on this challenge, and the results
have been fascinating. After six weeks, my natural hair is the softest it
has ever been. It looks so much less frizzy and I am thrilled with it.
I am now going to go without washing my hair for much longer periods,
because I think it is a much more natural state. My scalp feels so much
softer and smoother, and there is none of the itching I used to
experience.
The greatest thing holding all of us back is psychological - we think
that if we don’t wash our hair, it will look awful and smell. In fact,
this isn’t the case at all. My hair looks great, it is much softer, and it
doesn’t smell at all.
None of my friends have noticed any difference, apart from saying that
my hair looks nice. The difference in texture is astonishing - it has
taught me that hair is not designed to be washed day after day in
expensive products which strip out all of the natural oils.
Now, it neither looks nor smells dirty, and it feels great. This
experiment has been fabulous for me, because it means I will save time on
all that washing. Like most women, I’m a bit of a slave to my hair in
terms of how much time and money I spend trying to get it right.
But the past six weeks has illustrated that I can just get on with my
life and let my scalp’s natural oils take care of my hair. It’s been a
revelation.
CONTRIBUTOR FOUR:
And MY Personal Favorite:
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The No-’Poo Do
If you want to lose the ‘fright wig,’ try
ditching your shampoo
By: AUDREY SCHULMAN
5/25/2007 4:36:15 PM
Halfway through my last haircut, the stylist
asked me what kind of “products” I used.
This was an embarrassing subject for me.
“Not that many,” I mumbled.
He ran his fingers though my shoulder-length
hair and said, “Whatever it is, honey, you keep doing it. Your hair’s
looking fine.”
I’m terrified that this stylist (surrounded
by packaged lotions piled high on shelves) will find out I don’t use
anything. No hair dye. No conditioner. And here I cough uncomfortably
and confess, no shampoo. A “no-’poo do,” as we folks like to call it.
I used to use shampoo, but around six years
ago the ends of my red hair began to rise into the air a little higher
each week, frizzy and dry as poodle fur. I tried soaking it in
different types of conditioners but they seemed to affect only the
hair near my scalp, flattening it with grease until I began to
resemble Little Orphan Annie in a rainstorm. Desperate, I experimented
with expensive and time-consuming hair-care techniques, the kind that
called for heat compresses, mud from the Dead Sea, and (oy) deer
placentas. Nothing helped.
Around the time I was seriously considering
a crew cut, I read about a traditional Mexican no-shampoo method that
spread natural oils through the hair rather than leaving them clumped
up near the scalp.
This hair treatment is simple, cheap, and
fast — my kind of beauty routine. All I have to do is wash with water,
then brush my wet hair with a washcloth 100 strokes each side. This
moves the oils from the scalp, spreading them evenly across the hair.
Miraculously, within two weeks, my frizzy ends became less flyaway. My
hair began to shine again, getting wavy instead of bushy. And, since
the oils weren’t massed near the scalp, my hair didn’t droop, limp and
greasy.
The more I used this washcloth process, the
less I needed to shampoo (winnowing down gradually to every week, then
every few weeks). After a month or two, I found I could stop
shampooing entirely — except in rare circumstances, like that time I
sanded drywall and appeared to have been dragged in from an
archeological site.
Insane in the mane
Before you mutter anything about what a big fat liar I am, take a look
at a book of old photos — maybe one featuring daguerreotypes from the
turn of the century. As you peruse the photos, consider this: the
first commercial shampoo wasn’t even invented (right here in
Springfield, actually) until 1930: Breck. Before that, people didn’t
rinse their hair more than a few times a year. Although soaps gentle
enough for personal hygiene had recently been invented, they
definitely weren’t used on hair. Sure, some historical photos might
get retouched, but not a photo of a Yakama Native American, her hair
thick, lustrous, and definitely not oily. And not a daguerreotype of
an Irish maid, her curls vibrant even in black and white.
Since I’ve gone “no ’poo”, I’ve done my
research. The oil in hair, known as sebum, is a protective sheath of
esters and fatty acids that give your hair shine and bounce and
protect it against damage. According to research conducted at
Bristol-Myers Squibb, sebum even has natural antimicrobial properties
that help stop scalp infections. Like melanin in your skin, sebum is
created as needed. If you spend a day on the beach, your melanin goes
into overdrive and your skin gets darker. If you wash your sebum down
the drain every morning, your follicles click into
sebum-overproduction in order to protect your scalp and hair. When you
stop shampooing constantly, they begin to produce less.
In fact, shampoos aren’t designed with your
hair in mind. Instead, they’re meant to satisfy your fingers and eyes.
Marketers know you don’t believe you’re cleaning unless there’s a
thick lather, the kind you get when washing the dishes and scrubbing
the floor. But your hair is more delicate than pans, and the chemical
that produces lather, sodium lauryl sulfate, is too harsh for hair.
Over time, it strips away sebum, leaving hair frizzy and dull. You get
split ends and breakage. You begin to look like Ronald McDonald. And
so you reach for conditioner.
Conditioners, which began to be sold
commercially a few decades after shampoo had created the need, coat
your hair with artificial esters and gives it back some shine. Of
course, the stuff builds up after a while (along with the natural
sebum your poor follicles are still desperately overproducing) and the
combination makes your hair lie flat as a wet blanket.
Okay, time to shampoo. Vicious cycle.
Grateful head
Without shampoo for five years now, my hair has never looked better.
Shiny, with body and blond highlights, it glows with health. My mom,
who has a bloodhound’s sense of smell and absolutely no tact when it
comes to dirt, stuck her nose right into my hair and (incorrectly)
guessed that I’d washed it yesterday. I even went to the fancy
Grettacole Salon in Copley Place for a professional opinion. The
stylist there, not knowing about my hair-care regime, decreed my hair
shiny, healthy, and clean with lots of body.
As a bonus, the rest of my health may be
better, as well, since commercial shampoos can include a cocktail of
chemicals, such as methylisothiazolinone (a known human mutagen), and
zinc pyrithione (a nerve and muscle toxin). As Kristan Markey of the
Environmental Working Group told me, “Taken orally, zinc pyrithione is
very toxic. It’s a broad systemic toxin. Something between a teaspoon
and an ounce will kill you.” As for the preservative
methylisothiazolinone, he added, it is “already restricted in certain
concentrations in countries such as Japan and Canada. It has
immune-system toxicity. Still, it’s used in several hundred shampoos
and conditioners.”
Who wants these toxins rinsed down the drain
into rivers and lakes, much less slathered on one’s scalp? Skin can
absorb chemicals, just as the lining of the stomach does. Yet the FDA,
through some crazy legal loophole, doesn’t regulate the ingredients in
personal-care products.
(Seriously. There are endocrine disrupters
galore in nail polish. And I don’t even want to mention hair dyes.)
But let’s get back to style. The Web is
filled with wavy-haired folks who live by the no-’poo technique. No
surprise, since the curlier your hair, the more sensitive it is to
drying out.
There’s no shortage of no-’poo believers
among those with straight hair, too, since the system can help give a
little body to your locks once they aren’t weighed down by
conditioner. Yes, there are people who report no ’poo doesn’t work for
them. But whatever causes these failures, it’s not linked to a
specific hair type.
As to step-by-step directions of how to go
no ’poo, you should do your own research on the techniques. See what
you’re most comfortable with. If your hair begins to feel dirty
without shampoo, then wash with a gentle conditioner like Suave or use
a little baking soda mixed with water on the hair near the scalp. If
your ends get frizzy, brush your wet hair more often with a washcloth,
or soak the ends in water-diluted lime juice or apple vinegar.
You might go through some ugly transition
days (I had a lot of ugly days), but the more gradually you start
weaning yourself off shampoo, the more subtle those days are going to
be.
Think how much cash you spend on shampoo and
conditioner, hair gel, and the like. Think of all that — your money
and those chemicals — washed literally down the drain. None of it is
good for your health, those fish downstream, or your hair.
Audrey Schulman is a freelance writer
living in Cambridge. She can be reached at
audrey@audreyschulman.com
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